Red River Kennels

Here is some VERY Important Information you will need before your puppy arrives.

 

1. When you pick them up from the airport or from me in person they are going to be nervous and somewhat scared, it’s best that you go straight home with them. Be sure you bring your Puppy Nutri-Cal with you!!!!!! You’ll need to give your puppy some as soon as you get him or her in the car, and again before bed time and twice a day for the next few days (about a 1/2inch on your finger and then place in mouth or about 2 to 3 cc’s from a syringe). This helps increase their appetite & maintain their Glucose Balance and helps prevent HYPO while adjusting to their new environment. You can also offer them a little water (not much because it can cause increased car sickness) if you’re an hour or so from home. Bring a towel, most will get CAR-SICK on the way home and a crate.

 

2. When you get them home offer them their food and water. They will probably potty, smell around, nibble on their food, drink and then sleep some. You can add 2 teaspoons of sugar to a pint of water for their water source for the next week or so. This will help prevent HYPO. (Be sure a change water daily if the sugar is added.) ... But if you give the Nutri-Cal (Which I prefer over the sugar water) you WILL NOT need to do both..

 

3. They are eating a food called Royal Canin X-Small Puppy (Blue bag w/ white writing) you can get this at PetsMart or Petco or order it from Chewy.com. I also feed what I call PUPPY MUSH – I make this myself and the recipe is at the bottom of this page.  IF! You do not want to cook this, for the first couple of days you can feed Royal Canin wet food for puppies for their breakfast, lunch and evening feedings. Leave their dry food down during the day for them to eat. Make sure they are eating and they need to eat at least every 4 to 6 hours. There will be a small bag of Royal Canin Dry & wet food in their packet along with a small sample of the Nutri-Cal. I suggest feeding this for at least the first month and if you change feeds do it slowly and feed a high quality food, Never a ground CORN Base food , (ALL Wal-Mart foods are Ground Corn base, look on the ingredients and if the FIRST ingredient is Ground Corn, I DO NOT recommend feeding that food. (Corn is a filler, they will eat more to satisfy their nutritional needs and will poop more if you fed a Corn base food). Please DO NOT ever feed Beniful by Purina.

As your puppy gets adjusted and matures he or she will not eat as much food (their bodies are nutritional satisfied). I really like keeping them on the Royal Canin, it is an excellent food and they do not gorge themselves tying to meet their nutritional needs. 

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• Your Puppy has also been on the NuVet Plus from the first day they started eating, this is a SUPER GREAT Supplement and I HIGHLY recommend you to continue you to feed this. (I will send all the NuVet info in another email).

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• I also keep around HONEY-NUT CHEERIOS for treats, they are a good source of sugar and carbs, I give them a few through-out the day... It helps prevent Hypoglycemia, THEY LOVE THEM and So Do I...!!!

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• And just because you place food in front of them, doesn't mean they have eaten, please watch them and make sure they eat.

 

4.~(NuVet REQUIRED)“Due to the varying kinds of food and different environmental conditions the puppies come in contact with; and the fact that all puppies have immune systems that take time to mature, the terms of this guarantee will not be honored unless they are given NuVet Plus® immune system builder, as directed by the manufacturer, for the entire guarantee period. Failure to do so will render this guarantee null and void except where prohibited by law. We also highly recommend you continue to give your pet NuVet Plus beyond the guarantee period to promote optimal health for a lifetime.” About NuVet Plus NuVet Plus is America’s premier pet immune system support supplement incorporating a precise formula of vitamins, minerals, enzymes, herbs and antioxidants that perform synergistically to bring together all of the vital ingredients required to maintain optimal health. NuVet Plus is made in the USA using natural, human grade ingredients that are formulated in an FDA registered pharmaceutical laboratory. Veterinarian recommended, NuVet Plus was designed for dogs at every life stage; from supporting your puppy’s maturing immune system to helping to protect against issues later in life. For your convenience you may order by phone by calling 800-474-7044, using order code 94158 or online at www.nuvet.com/94158. NuVet products are not sold in stores. Customers outside the U.S. must place order by phone only.

 

5. Potty Training, I have started using The Potty Training Puppy Apartment (PTPA) Crate on some of the puppies and have found that it really works. http://modernpuppies.com/ you can also find the info on my website under Potty Training, the PTPA cost runs from 140.00 to 200.00 is a little costly but is sure does work and beats replacing your flooring and you becoming aggravated at your puppy. If you should decide to use the PTPA please use coupon code RRK75554 for 5% off. If you do order the PTPA get the size "Small" not extra Small. Also here are some good old fashion Crate Training links- http://www.perfectpaws.com/crt.html and http://www.wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/crate.htm

But! The only way your puppy will be successfully potty trained is you being consistent on the method you choose to do, they will NOT train themselves.

 

6. ...... Also please call or consult with me before spending a ton of money at the Vets on “sometimes” unnecessary testing!! Do NOT Hesitate to ask your VET what he is testing for and why. Also if you feel something is WRONG with your puppy please contact me, in any emergency situation call your Vet first. If you feel your puppy isn't eating or acting like it should, please DO NOT HESITATE TO CALL ME 903-219-1863

 

Also I do my VERY best the estimate the puppies Adult size, Sometimes I'm off a pound or two, I used the puppy wt chart and all go by the parents. Not all bigger/fat puppies will be big and not all smaller/little puppies will be small... But I will do my best, by knowing my dogs. BUT I CAN NOT GUARANTEE WEIGHT & SIZE.

 

DO NOT SUBITUTE THE NUTRI-CAL FOR THE FOOD INTAKE, IF THEY AREN'T EATING WITHIN THE FIRST 6 HRS OF YOU GETTING THEM "PLEASE CALL ME"....903-219-1863

 

Some people are having a hard time finding the Nutri-cal, If I feel the puppy your are getting needs to go home with the Nutri-cal we will send a tube of it home with you and the new baby. Do NOT buy the GNC Brand.

 

THE HYPO ISSUES & INSTRUCTIONS ARE MAINLY FOR THE X-SMALL BABIES & BABIES BETWEEN 8 & 10 WKS OLD AND BABIES UNDER 2PDS. THE LARGER BABIES SHOULDN'T NEED THE NUTRI-CAL.IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT ANYTHING PLEASE CLARIFY IT BEFORE YOU GET YOUR PUPPY......

 

**HYPOGLYCEMIA**,

The medical term for low blood sugar, is the NUMBER ONE cause of DEATH in toy breeds. . New Owners,please read this information CAREFULLY because you can PREVENT a hypoglycemic death

Because Hypoglycemia is PREVENTABLE, it is NOT covered on my guarantee. It is YOUR responsibility as a new puppy owner to READ THIS INFORMATION and become educated on how to properly care for your new Yorkie Puppy.

Hypoglycemia most often occurs in puppies from 8 to 20 weeks of age, but can also occur in mature toy breeds when they become stressed. STRESS is what usually causes hypoglycemia.

Puppies can become stressed from actions such as moving to a new home, being alone for long periods of time, playing too rough, refusal to eat, change of environment and food/water, too much traveling, exposure to low room temperatures, bacterial infections, or from your inability to let your puppy rest and sleep.

Puppies need A LOT of sleep. Puppies should most definitely sleep and rest more than they are allowed to play, you should never wake a sleeping puppy (unless it has been over a 2hrs period).

There are many warning signs of hypoglycemia: lack of energy, weakness, tilting of the head, an unbalanced wobbling when walking, great hunger or refusal to eat, restlessness, high pitched whimpering and whining, shivering and/or trembling, disorientation, seizures or convulsions, white or pale gray gums, coma, and death. If your new puppy is displaying any of these symptoms you should assume it is hypoglycemia and treat it accordingly. It's always better to be safe than sorry! If your puppy was not having a hypoglycemic spell, treatment would not have done it harm anyway. But if the spell WAS due to hypoglycemia, treatment would have saved your puppy's life.
If you own/plan to own a toy breed puppy there are things you need to always keep on hand: dry 'Royal Canine' brand puppy food, wet 'Cesar food, Nutri-Cal and/or 'Karo' brand corn syrup, 'Honey Nut Cheerios' or 'Lucky Charms' brand cereal [FYI: adding about 8 pieces of one of these cereals to your puppy's usual meal is a great PREVENTATIVE tip for hypoglycemia], vienna sausages from the baby/toddler isle in the grocery store, 'Pedialyte' or 'Rebound', and a heating pad.

When treating your puppy for hypoglycemia you should always remain CLAM, DO NOT PANIC (you can always call me!!).
If you suspect your puppy is showing signs of hypoglycemia, you should start treating it immediately, first give them some of the Nutri-Cal (If you are out of Nutri-cal, you can use 'Karo' corn syrup as a back-up), and offer them something to eat (Puppy Mush or wet food) If the puppy STILL refuses to eat, Nutri-cal should be administered again. Place about an inch of Nutri-cal on your finger and wipe it on the roof of your puppy's mouth or tongue. Repeat this process in 10 minute intervals if needed. Once your puppy is more alert, feed them the wet puppy food. If your puppy is still refusing to eat, try the baby/toddler vienna sausages. Your puppy will probably be dehydrated and will need a lot of liquids, offer him/her 'Pedialyte' or 'Rebound'. Also, your puppy will most likely be cold, so you will need to fix him/her a bed on top of a heating pad set on medium temperature. Your puppy may also want to snuggle close to you to get warm. Allow your puppy to get a lot of undisturbed rest. Observe your puppy for several hours to insure a hypoglycemic spell doesn't happen again. Continue observing your pet and give Nutri-cal or corn syrup and food as needed.

If your puppy is showing SEVERE signs of hypoglycemia, especially if it is having seizures or unconscious, you must give the Nurti-Cal or 'Karo' corn syrup immediately. Carefully rub small amount of the gel or syrup on the cheeks and gums. Do NOT put a lot of liquid in the puppy's mouth, and be sure the puppy does not choke. Do not stick your fingers between the teeth of a seizing puppy, you may get bitten. Call a vet immediately and get additional instructions. Your puppy will most likely need to go to the vet immediately.

Please remember to keep plenty of food and water available to your puppy at ALL times and that your puppy gets plenty of rest.

  

Most of your OLDER AND / OR LARGER puppies have OUT GROWN the Hypo stage, unless they are EXTRA-SMALL BABIES.....

Also, if you are questioning whether or not to call your vet, you can reach me at 903-219-1863 anytime and I will be more than happy to help you with any questions or concerns. We sincerely hope that your puppy never has a hypoglycemic attack, and we also hope that this information will prevent an attack or educate you on how to treat it. Our goal is to ALWAYS provide you with a happy, healthy YORKIE puppy.

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What is COCCIDIA: Is an "opportunist protozoon" that lives in the bowels of all dogs, ALL DOGS carry coccidian, A daily supply of yogurt prevents coccidia from getting a foothold as it keeps a good balance of bacteria in the G. I. tract. If your puppy is put on antibiotics of any sort, feed yogurt to replenish the good bacteria that is killed off by the antibiotic.. Did that make sense? . But something has got to weaken the immune system of an animal for the protozoa to have an opportunity to take hold and start multiplying. That "something " is usually stress of one kind or another. A loose, stinky stool that can even have streaks of bright red bloody mucus in it usually accompanies coccidia. Some Vets will explain coccidia to their clients by saying the animal is loaded with parasites. This is sometimes interpreted by that client that the animal has worms. Coccidia is not exactly a parasite but can be just as hard to get rid of. So long as good bacteria exist in an ample supply in the gut, coccidia can not grow. Coccidia is shed in the stool like a virus. If the animal is not shedding it when a stool sample is taken, the animal can be misdiagnosed as being free of the protozoa. It will in no way affect the antibiotic from completing it's job but may save your animal from secondary infections caused by an imbalance of good bacteria. When coccidia does exist in the G. I. tract of your puppy, it can easily spread up through the system and into the lungs and if unchecked, it can cause pneumonia and eventually death. The first signs of coccidia is usually a lack of eating properly accompanied by a loose stinky stool and sometimes escalating into bouts of hypoglycemia. Coccidia can be transmitted to humans if hands are not washed and contaminated utensils are handled improperly. Coccidia should never be allowed to progress to a point that the puppy's life is threatened. If your puppy shows signs of this disease, immediately seek professional advice and treatment.

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What is Kennel Cough:

Tracheobronchitis is also known as "kennel cough". This is probably a misnomer, since most dogs that get this disease have not been in kennels. Still, when dogs are placed in group situations, they are often exposed to the organisms that cause tracheobronchitis. It is sort of like all the colds that are seen in kindergarteners.

There are a number of possible causes of tracheobronchitis but most cases are probably caused by the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica. Other causes are canine distemper virus, parainfluenza virus, adenovirus infection and possibly Mycoplasmal organisms.

A dry hacking cough is the most common sign of this disease. Most vets assume that a dog has tracheobronchitis when the owner calls on the phone and says "my dog has a bone caught in his throat". The type of cough really does cause many people to assume that there must be something caught in the dog's throat and many dogs retch at the end of the coughing. In some cases, pneumonia may occur as a complication of this condition.

It is probably OK to treat this condition by simply using medications to control the cough but most owners are more content if antibiotics are used and most vets therefore put the dogs on an antibiotic for seven to ten days. Hydrocodone or butorphanol cough suppressants work best and every vet seems to have a personal favorite antibiotic for this condition.

All of the organisms that cause this disease appear to be pretty contagious so it is not unusual for all the dogs in a household to rapidly become infected.

This will go away. Controlling the cough will make your dog more comfortable and allow you to get some sleep!

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Dealing with STRESS!!!

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STRESS IS THE MAIN CAUSE OF ILLNESS AND DEATH TO NEWLY ACQUIRED PUPPIES!!!

There are many sources of stress. Simply moving a puppy to a new home, holding him too much, contending with another pet, or being allowed too much playtime are just a few of the many sources of stress. A new puppy is nervous and excited because they are unfamiliar with their surroundings and their new families which causes a lot of stress. They are like babies who need regular scheduled time for eating, sleeping, drinking, going to potty and playing. A CRATE or better yet the (PTPA as mention above) IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ITEM TO HAVE FOR A NEW PUPPY. It can be a carrier, a cage, a playpen or a small enclosed area in a quiet room of your home. The crate serves two purposes. It will house train your pet and it protects its health and well-being while it grows. The crate provides a secure, comfortable place where it can rest, eat, drink and play at his own pace. The crate should be placed in an area where the temperature stays about the same all the time. Avoid areas that are drafty (cooling vents). Provide a comfortable bed in the crate since puppies sleep approximately 90% of the time until they are older. They will need food and water available to them at all times whether they are in the crate or out of the crate for their playtime. This allows them to eat, rest and drink, as they need to so they can grow properly. Crating the puppy is not punishment, it is protection! It can in some cases save their life. **(the only time I take up their food and water is at night).


AVOID EXCESSIVE HANDLING. Too much of this can add stress and over-tire the puppy. A tired puppy will not eat; he only wants to sleep, A puppy can be played with for about 30 minutes at a time at first. Taking him out for his potty break should begin the playtime. This schedule for playing can be increased gradually, week by week, as the puppy grows older and becomes stronger. The rest time should remain the same. He needs at least 2 hours or more at a time in his crate, undisturbed, for rest. GIVING HIM THE QUIET TIME FOR REST IS A MUST! *The stress of moving a puppy can sometimes bring on illness. If you notice any sign of illness before or after the post examination by a vet, contact us immediately. Missing a meal can be a life threatening thing with a young, small puppy. It can lead to Hypoglycemia.

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Here is a little advice that can go a long way…..

 

** Please remember Stress is the #1 cause of HYPOGLYCEMIA!!!!!!!!

I can NOT “STRESS” this enough!! Keep your puppy in a clam, warm, loving surrounding and make sure they eat & drink.

 

**Do not take your puppy in to those stores that allow pets – PetsMart, Petco, TSC, etc… There are many dogs that come in and out of these stores, you don’t know where they have been or what they have been exposed too, and they may be sick or have been sick. These stores DO NOT clean up after every dog that passes through their doors.

 

**DO NOT allow people (Strangers) to handle or touch your puppy (who knows what sick puppy they’ve touched before they touch yours).

 

**DO NOT take your puppy to the park where other dogs have been, or at least until ALL SHOTS have been given, and your Veterinarian gives you the Okay.

**While traveling with your Puppy/Dog and your needing to stop for them to relieve themselves, go to a Country Church parking lot or exit of the main road and stop at an old Farm Gate. But Please DO NOT Stop at Road Side Parks or Rest Areas, Dogs from All Over uses these Rest-Areas/Parks and your PUPPY/Dog can pick up many different illnesses there. So please beware of those populated places and ALWAYS have them on a leash.

 

**If you or your family members have small children, please watch them VERY closely around the puppy, one strong hug can crush the puppy, dropping the puppy can result in head injury, broken bones, and/or death. Very small children can fall on/or trip over the puppy causing injury to themselves and/or the puppy.

 

**Please help keep your puppy healthy and safe by scheduling a once a year Vet Check, TITER TESTING (Please read about the titer testing over giving Vaccines yearly), Heart Worm preventative, Teeth Cleaning, etc…

 

**Find a Vet that you can get to know...

 

**I DO NOT RECOMMEND using ANY of the BANDFIELD VET SERVICES in the Petco or Petsmarts..... most of these are Student Vets and you NEVER see the same vet twice, You and your puppy need to develop a GOOD one on one relationship with the Vet and the their Staff...Our guarantee WILL NOT cover any diagnosis from BANDFIELD VET SERVICES or Westridge Animal Hospital (Dr. Randall Murray) of Texarkana, Tx (local clinic) : This Vet RE-vaccinates the puppies, putting them at a very high risk, telling his customer's that Breeders vaccines are not any good, we all order them from a vet supply company just as he does. ;-(

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**BE SURE TO Always have a TOWEL (some puppies will get Car Sick).

 

**Keep your puppy in a harness & leash at all time while out-doors and keep him or her in a crate while traveling.

 

**Never open your car door until you have your puppy/dog contain or on a leash, many have bolted from open doors and/or windows, and resulting in the lost of their pet. 

 

**Feed a good quality dog food and plenty of fresh water, try to avoid giving them People Food – Table Scraps.

 

**NEVER GIVE YOUR PUPPY THOSE CHEAP RAW-HIDE Chews!!!!.

 

**Nyla-Bones, Pig-Ears, Cow Hooves are the Best Chew toys...

 

**I recommend a HARNESS over COLLARS, puppies have been known to get their collars caught and choke to-death, also if they pull on it, it can crush their larnx (throat).

 

**NEVER LEAVE A COLLAR ON YOUR PUPPY WHILE IT IS IN THE CRATE!!!!

 

**NEVER PUT PERFUME or LOUD SMELLING SHAMPOOS on your puppy, it messes up their Smelling and they WILL NOT EAT!!!!

 

**If you should have any questions throughout your dog’s life, I’m only a phone call or email away. Oh yea, I LOVE getting updates and photos…….

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Thank you for choosing a puppy from Red River Yorkies.

And Please send me a Friends Request on Face Book -

You can find me as "Vona Trimm McDougal" https://www.facebook.com/vona.mcdougal

Red River Yorkies https://www.facebook.com/RedRiverYorkies/?ref=bookmarks

 

My recipe For Making “The Puppy Mush” Food.

You can feed this along with their Dry Kibble (this does not replace their Dry Kibble)

1 Pint of Chicken Livers

1 Chicken Leg Quarter with the Skin (that’s their favorite part)

2 to 3 eggs – Break the Yolks stirring really good with a fork.

1 Cup of White Rice or Brown Rice

A Dash of Garlic Powder

½ Can of Sweet Green Peas

½ Can of Sliced Carrots

In a 2 to 4 Quart pan add 4 cups of water, chicken liver and chicken leg quarter and bring to a boil. Once it is boiling add the 1 cup of rice and let cook on high/med for about 15 minutes stirring very frequently. Once the rice starts to get soft and swell stir in the eggs and peas and carrots. Then turn heat OFF and let sit for around 20/30 minutes.

The rice will continue to swell and it becomes a Mush. Take out the chicken thigh and cut it up into little pieces and add it back into the mush (be sure to discard the bones from the chicken leg quarter – DO NOT give your dog chicken bones). You may have to add water and break up a few of the liver pieces to what you feed (it should look like a thick mushy soup). Put in refrigerator and scoop out what you going to feed, heat it a little in the microwave and feed. The Puppies and Adult Dog love this stuff and it’s much better than the can food you buy. Be sure to Stay with a High Quality Dry Kibble, I prefer Royal Canin over most of the others.

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